naturally dyed – Black Isle Yarns

6th July 202229th December 2023 Julie

The Inshriach Hat is my first design and I am very grateful for Emily William’s help in bringing my vision to life. Inshriach is designed as part of the Perspectives Collection. Scotland’s remaining native pinewoods are perhaps our most precious and evocative habitats – a link to the past. Spending time in these majestic woods with snow falling and stars shining is the most magical of experiences.

You can purchase the Perspectives Collection as a whole in book format directly from my website as a print book (with digital download code) or as a digital download (the collection includes five other lovely patterns – the Rothiemurchus Cowl by Mieka John, the Feshie Shawl by Maddie Harvey, the Pityoulish Vest by Emily K Williams, the Eanaich Shawl by Tyne Swedish and the Balvattan Mittens by Julia Billings).

Perspectives is a design collection inspired by the landscape and wool of the Highlands. Going outside can bring you closer to your inner self. Rooted deeply in the Scottish landscape, these six patterns using naturally dyed Scottish wool take inspiration from outdoor adventures and inward exploration.

This simple colourwork hat (just two colours per row) will keep you warm and cosy on your woodland adventure – be it a wander on the coldest and most wintry of nights, or just a late picnic on a chilly Scottish summer evening. The deep ribbed brim can be folded for warmth and a neat fit, or worn unfolded with more slouch. With or without a pompom you’ll have a new favourite hat for all your outdoor trips.

As well as full skeins of Auchen Sport there are also mini skein sets for the Inshriach Hat.

Inshriach Hat by Julie Rutter in Auchen Sport (photo by Jeni Reid)

Sizes
1 (2, 3)

Shown in Size 2 with 2 cm / 0.75 in negative ease.

Circumference: 48 (53, 57.5) cm / 19.25 (21, 23) in
Depth: 23 (25.5, 28) cm / 9.25 (10.25, 11.25) in

Tension
25 sts and 31 rows over 10 cm / 4 in, im stranded colourwork using larger needles.

Block your swatch according to the finishing directions before measuring.

Techniques
Tubular cast-on (optional), stranded colourwork, knitting in the round, reading charts

Notions
6 (7, 7) stitch markers, type A
4 (4, 5) stitch markers, type B
Tapestry needle
Optional – medium sized pompom maker and a length of strong smooth yarn

Needles
2.75 mm circular needles or DPNs
3.25 mm circular needles or DPNs

Choose needles according to your preference for working small circumferences in the round.

Yarn
Version 1:
MC Haar; 1 x 30g skein
CC Dark Indigo; 1 x 50g skein

Version 2:
MC: Haar; 1 x 30g skein
CC1: Raspberry; 1 x 30g skein
CC2: Damson; 1 x 30g skein
CC3: Pearl; 1 x 30g skein

Errata for Inshriach Hat.

6th July 202229th December 2023 Julie

The cosy Balvattan Mittens are designed by my lovely friend Julia Billings. A winter’s break in one of the most beautiful glens of Scotland brought into focus the subtle, repeating lines found in snow-bearing clouds and luminous winter sunsets. These echoing lines found in nature, while often irregular like the stacked silhouettes of mountains and ripples in water, allow our eyes to rest in a very particular way.

Balvattan Mittens are designed in the round in stocking stitch, the mitts are then turned inside out to highlight the texture of its reverse side. With a long cuff and dense, flannel-like fabric to keep the wind out, a comfortable shaped thumb gusset and rounded peak, these simple, practical mittens fit easily in the pocket of a walking jacket.

As well as full skeins of Auchen Sport there are also mini skein sets for Balvattan Mittens.

Balvattan Mittens by Julia Billings in Auchen Sport (photo by Jeni Reid)

Sizes
1 (2, 3)

Shown in sizes 1 and 3 with zero ease.

Circumference: 17 (19, 21) cm / 6.5 (7.5, 8.5) in
Length: 28 (29, 30) cm / 11 (11.5, 12) in
Length from fingertip to thumb joint: 13 (13.5, 14.5) cm / 5, (5.25, 5.75) in

Tension
30 sts nd 40 rows over 10 cm / 4 in, in stocking stitch.

Block your swatch according to the finishing directions before measuring.

Techniques
Backwards loop cast-on, long-tail purlwise cast-on (optional), knitting in the round, reading charts, picking up stitches.

Needles
2.75mm circular needles or DPNs.
Choose needles according to your preference for working small circumferences in the round.

Notions
Tapestry needle
2 stitch markers
Waste yarn or stitch holders

Yarn
Version 1 (size 1):
MC: Haar; 1 x 50g skein
CC1: Pearl; 1 x 30g skein
CC2: Damson; 1 x 30g skein

Version 2 (size 3):
MC; Dark Indigo; 1 x 50g skein
CC1: Light Indigo; 1 x 30g skein
CC2: Brick; 1 x 30g skein

Note: The mitts are worked inside out, with the wrong side facing. MC and CC1 can be carried up the front of the work (wrong side) when not in use. CC2 should be broken and rejoined each time it is used.

Alternatively, spit splice the yarn at each colour change.

6th July 202229th December 2023 Julie

The beautiful Feshie Shawl is designed by Maddie Harvey as part of the Perspectives Collection. The sensory shock of wild swimming – icy water, splashes, currents and warm sun on skin – commands your full attention even as it refreshes and restores you. This shivering charge inspires a shawl that uses lace and texture to suggest the meandering tributaries of Highland rivers, their small islands and inlets and even their smooth pebbles.

You can purchase the Perspectives Collection as a whole in book format directly from my website as a print book (with digital download code) or as a digital download (the collection includes five other lovely patterns – the Rothiemurchus Cowl by Mieka John, the Pityoulish Vest by Emily K Williams, the Balvattan Mittens by Julia Billings, the Eanaich Shawl by Tyne Swedish and the Inshriach Hat by me). Additionally Maddie has released Feshie as an individual pattern and you can purchase it directly from Maddie’s Ravelry or Payhip.

The Feshie Shawl’s lacy sections are set against opaque garter stitch and waving stocking stitch columns. The shawl is knitted from side to side in two halves, joined together with a three- needle cast-off after the knitting is complete.

Feshie Shawl by Maddie Harvey in Auchen Sport (photo by Jeni Reid)

Sizes
One size

Length: 264 cm / 104 in
Depth: 78 cm / 30.75 in

Tension
18sts and 21 rows over 10 cm / 4 in, lace pattern.

Block your swatch according to the finishing directions before measuring. The tension is not critical for this project, but will affect the amount of yarn used and the size of the finished shawl.

Techniques
Reading charts, lace knitting, 3-needle cast-off (instructions provided)

Notions
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers (optional)
1 spare needle, 4.5 mm or smaller

Needles
4.5 mm needles
5.5 mm needle

Yarn
2 x 110 g skeins

Shown in Raspberry in version 1 and Haar in version 2.

Feshie Shawl in Auchen Sport Haar (undyed) and Raspberry (cochineal)

Feshie Shawl by Maddie Harvey in Auchen Sport

6th July 202229th December 2023 Julie

The Pityoulish Vest is designed by Emily K Williams as part of the Perspectives Collection. My lovely friend Emily’s design uses simple lace to suggest rippling waters on a relaxed top that is perfect for a walk on those days that aren’t quite as warm as they might be.

You can purchase the Perspectives Collection as a whole in book format directly from my website as a print book (with digital download code) or as a digital download (the collection includes five other lovely patterns – the Rothiemurchus Cowl by Mieka John, the Feshie Shawl by Maddie Harvey, the Balvattan Mittens by Julia Billings, the Eanaich Shawl by Tyne Swedish and the Inshriach Hat by me).

Pityoulish is worked from the top down, casting on for the back with the shoulders and neck shaped using short rows in the garter yoke. Once the back is worked to the armholes, stitches are picked up for the front yoke. After joining in the round at the underarm the remainder of the body is knit in the round. Stitches are picked up for the cap sleeves, which are gently shaped using short rows in garter stitch.

Pityoulish Vest designed by Emily K Williams in Auchen Sport, photo by Jeni Reid

Sizes
Modelled in Size 5 with 15 cm/6 in positive ease at full bust, and in Size 2 with 10 cm/ 4 in positive ease at full bust.

Bust circumference: 87.5 (98, 109, 120, 131, 142, 152.5, 163.5) cm / 35 (39.25, 43.75, 48, 52.25, 56.75, 61, 65.5) in

Tension
22 sts and 32 rows over 10 cm / 4 in, in stocking stitch using larger needles.

Block your swatch according to the finishing directions before measuring.

Techniques
Knitting in the round, reading charts, lace knitting, short rows, picking up stitches

Notions
Tapestry needle
2 stitch markers
2 lockable stitch markers
Waste yarn or stitch holders

Needles
3 mm circular needles
3 mm double-pointed needles (optional)
3.5 mm circular needles

Yarn
2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) x 100g skeins

Shown in Haar in size 2 and Dragon in size 5.

Errata for Pityoulish Vest.

Pityoulish Vest in Auchen Sport Haar (undyed) and Dragon (fustic and indigo)

6th July 202229th December 2023 Julie

The Rothiemurchus Cowl, designed by Mieka John of Salt and Stone Knits, has recently been issued as a single pattern and updated to include multiple sizes. The pattern was originally designed as part of the ‘Perspectives Collection’ specifically for this special design collection in book format, which I produced and was co-edited with my good friend Emily K Williams. You can purchase the Perspectives Collection as a whole in book format directly from my website as a print book (with digital download code) or as a digital download (the collection includes five other superb patterns – the Pityoulish Vest by Emily K Williams, the Feshie Shawl by Maddie Harvey, the Balvattan Mittens by Julia Billings, the Eanaich Shawl by Tyne Swedish and the Inshriach Hat by me).

The inspiration for the Rothiemurchus Cowl is the iconic Scots pine – gnarled and twisted with age, an enduring remnant of the primeval Caledonian forest. The deep texture of the tuck stitches mirrors the bark of these ancient trees, forming an airy, wind-resistant fabric that protects you in four dense layers. Rothiemurchus can be knit in Auchen Sport or Shetland Heavy 4ply/Sport.

Rothiemurchus Cowl in Auchen Sport (photo by Jeni Reid)

Sizes
4 sizes: Baby (Child, Adult S-M, Adult L-XL)

Samples are knit in Child and Adult S-M sizes. See photos for measurements.

Rothiemurchus Cowl in Shetland Heavy 4ply/Sport (photo by Cross and Woods)

Construction
Rothiemurchus Cowl is knit sideways in the round to create a long tube and grafted together. It starts with a provisional cast-on and a short stockinette band to get in the flow. Simple tuck stitch patterns (adapted from Nancy Marchant’s book “Tuck Stitches”) are worked in two long sections divided by stockinette. The cowl finishes with another band of stockinette, making it very easy to graft closed. Feel free to graft straight for better drape when worn as a single long loop, or add a moebius twist for a better fold when wrapped double.

Gauge
Stockinette: 21 sts by 28 rnds on Needle A

Tuck Stitch Patterns 1 and 2: 18 sts by 39 rnds on
Needle B

Block your swatch according to the finishing directions before measuring.

Needles
Needle A:
Suggested Size: US 7 / 4.5 mm

Needle B:
Suggested Size: US 4 / 3.5 mm

Techniques
Provisional cast-on, tuck stitches, knitting in the round, grafting (Kitchener stitch)

Notions
Crochet hook (for provisional cast-on)
Waste yarn or stitch holders
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle
1 spare circular needle, 4.5 mm or smaller

Yarn
Adult Version 1: Auchen
MC: Light Indigo; 1 x 110g skein
CC: Dark Indigo; 1 x 110g skein

Adult Version 2: Auchen
MC: Haar; 1 x 110g skein
CC: Brick; 1 x 110g skein

Child Shetland
MC: Brick; 1x 110g skein
CC: Light Madder; 1x 110g skein

24th June 202229th December 2023 Julie

Anushka, of The Crimson Stitchery, and I have been working on this collaboration for many months and I’m so pleased that we’re finally ready to share her lovely design – the Sisymbrium Sweater. Sisymbrium is knit with Killen Sock and is a playful, lightweight sweater featuring open crossed stitches, bobbles, and simple textures. This yoke sweater is knit from the top-downwards, in the round. It includes careful shaping to fit loosely around the body with positive ease, and a cropped length.

Sisymbrium Sweater in Killen Sock Rust and Denim

I’ll pop the sizing and yarn quantity details below for information. The pattern is available directly from Anushka via her website. Sisymbrium is designed with a wide range of sizes and it is a comfortable flattering sweater. I had a lot of fun last week with one of my daughters and her friend taking photos of both samples together. The Denim sample is a Size 2 with a lengthened body and the Rust sample is a Size 3 (both girls are approx 34″ full bust).

Anushka has made the most of Killen’s properties by designing Sisymbrium at a very loose gauge which results in the loveliest fabric with loads of drape. It is a quick knit and uses relatively little yarn. I’m so delighted to have had the chance to work with Anushka and that she has been able to create such a beautiful sweater in my yarn. I also need to thank my very lovely friend and talented sample knitter Clare Shaw for her superb work in knitting the Denim sample for me.

YARN (Killen Sock)

Approx 910 (1010, 1100, 1360, 1515) (1665, 1865, 2015, 2270)m/1000 (1105, 1215, 1490, 1660) (1825, 2040, 2205, 2485)yd 4-ply/fingering weight yarn.

Black Isle Yarns Killen Sock 4-ply 2020 Clip (80% Blue Faced Leicester, 20% Mohair; 400m/437yd per 100g)
3 (3, 3, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6) hanks in shade Rust or Indigo

GAUGE

21 stitches and 30 rows = 10cm/4” in Stocking Stitch in the round
Use the relevant needle sizes to achieve this gauge.
Block your swatch before measuring, as the fibres will bloom and the yarn may shrink.

EQUIPMENT

4.5mm/US7 knitting needles or size needed to obtain gauge
4mm/US6 knitting needles or size needed to obtain gauge
Circular knitting needles
Your preferred needle type for knitting small circumferences in the round
Stitch holder, scrap yarn or spare circular knitting needle
Cable needle

SIZING 9 sizes available. Choose a size 5-8cm/2-6” larger than your full-chest circumference.
Full-chest circumference: 85.5 (99, 108.5, 118, 129.5) (137, 146.5, 160, 167.5)cm / 33¾ (39, 42¾, 46½, 51) (54, 57¾, 63, 66)”

YARN (Killen Sock)

Approx 910 (1010, 1100, 1360, 1515) (1665, 1865, 2015, 2270)m/1000 (1105, 1215, 1490, 1660) (1825, 2040, 2205, 2485)yd 4-ply/fingering weight yarn.

Black Isle Yarns Killen Sock 4-ply 2020 Clip (80% Blue Faced Leicester, 20% Mohair; 400m/437yd per 100g)
3 (3, 3, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6) hanks in shade Rust or Indigo

GAUGE

EQUIPMENT

4.5mm/US7 knitting needles or size needed to obtain gauge
4mm/US6 knitting needles or size needed to obtain gauge
Circular knitting needles
Your preferred needle type for knitting small circumferences in the round
Stitch holder, scrap yarn or spare circular knitting needle
Cable needle

3rd June 202129th December 2023 Julie

Earlier this year, when I had just received the latest batch of Shetland DK and 4ply/Sport back from The Natural Fibre Company, I began looking for a sweater design that would suit Shetland DK. Around the same time Elizabeth Doherty released a new design, the Sian Sweater which immediately caught my eye. Knowing that I would struggle to knit one myself as quickly as I hoped I asked Clare Shaw if she would be able to sample knit for me and luckily she was able to.

Shetland DK Mocha and Toasted Coconut for Sian Sweater

I decided to use natural undyed Mocha for the main body of the sweater but wasn’t sure what to use for the contrast slip stitches on the yoke. The undyed natural White seemed like the obvious option but I felt it might be a little more stark than I was aiming for. I did a little experimenting with alder cones and cutch, and tried both alum mordant and not and modifying with iron afterwards or not. I loved all the results but felt that alder cones and cutch modified with iron (and not mordanted) gave the effect I was looking for. Clare came up with the name Toasted Coconut for this new colourway which I think is perfect.

Toasted Coconut Shetland DK naturally dyed with alder cones and cutch

As usual Clare knit quickly and checked any queries as she went along. I went for the straight version of the design but lengthened the body a little to suit my long torso. Clare felt the sleeves looked quite tight at the point of picking up stitches so she picked up the number required for a Size Four (the body is knit to Size Three). The whole sweater used 395 grams, most of four skeins of Mocha plus part of a skein of Toasted Coconut. I absolutely love the finished sweater. It is easy to wear, comfortable and flattering.

Sian Sweater knit in Black Isle Yarns Shetland DK

I don’t think Elizabeth has the design available to buy on her website at the moment but copies are available from Ravelry here, or if you would like a copy but can’t use Ravelry let me know and I will help out. Clare’s Ravelry project notes are here.

3rd June 202129th December 2023 Julie

Rie and I first made contact with each other through a US based yarn shop, and were paired up for a project which was due to launch late 2020. Sadly that particular three-way collaboration fell foul of coronavirus but Rie and I decided to continue working together.

We agreed that Rie would use Auchen, my sport weight woollen spun yarn, which at the time was newly released. We had some to and fro discussions to decide what sort of colour I should dye and settled on a soft madder shade. We also considered what the theme of our work should be and felt that Crossing Borders seemed to sum it up. Originally we were working as three women in three different countries each with their own strengths and challenges, and Crossing Borders felt like the way we wanted to approach the world. I did some trial dyeing on Auchen and Rie and I picked a beautiful shade dyed with madder and cutch which I have named Crossing Borders. I then sent two skeins off to Rie to work her design magic.

Crossing Borders – Auchen dyed with madder and cutch

Rie is a wonderfully talented designer with quite a distinct quiet but beautiful aesthetic and I was excited to see her design in Auchen develop. The design is everything I could have hoped for, a delicate but cosy shawl designed to drape and keep you warm. The main body of the shawl is a pretty shell lace and the deep border is a simple ribbon eyelet. The shawl can be folded where the triangular lace section changes to the eyelet border and doing so helps the design sit well across your shoulders. Bothe sides of the design are wearable.

Asahi Shawl by Rie (@kouvive) in Auchen Sport

Once Rie had almost finished the design we considered what the shawl should be named and Rie suggested ‘Asahi’ which is the Japanese name for the Crossing Borders colour. Rie’s shawl pattern is available on Ravelry here, I don’t think it is available anywhere else but if you can’t access Ravelry please let me know and I will help out. I knit my version of Asahi in Harvest Gold which is dyed with fustic, quebracho red and rhubarb root. The Ravelry notes for the project are here.

Asahi Shawl knit in Auchen Sport Crossing Borders

3rd June 202129th December 2023 Julie

During what we now know was sadly the last Loch Ness Knit Fest in October 2019, Emily and I plotted knitting a version of her stunning, newly released, Wilkhaven Sweater in my Shetland 4ply/Sport. Knowing that it would take me a very long time to knit one myself I asked my lovely friend Clare Shaw to sample knit a Wilkhaven for me – Clare is a very speedy and accurate knitter, and found that Shetland 4ply/Sport worked well for the design (unusually for a colourwork sweater Emily designed it with a worsted spun yarn, rather than woollen spun – which exactly suited my Shetland yarns, both DK and 4ply/Sport are worsted spun by The Natural Fibre Company and are plump and smooth – there is a blog post about the yarn here).

Wilkhaven Sweater knit in Shetland 4ply/Sport

My Wilkhaven is knit in Size One with around 5″ positive ease. The Ravelry project notes by Clare can be found here, and the Ravelry page for the design here – or alternatively you can buy the design directly from Emily’s PayHip store, or a paper copy from my online shop. Clare went down a needle size to get gauge and lengthened the body to suit my long torso but otherwise made no modifications.

I couldn’t be happier with my Wilkhaven which is knit with two skeins of natural undyed Grey, one skein of natural undyed White, two skeins of Indigo and one skein of Gold. If you are interested in knitting your own Wilkhaven I am very happy to put together a custom order for you. I can dye just the right amount of yarn for the size you need using mini skeins as well as full skeins to help make the knit as affordable as possible. If you’d like to consider a custom order please do get in touch.

Naturally Dyed Wilkhaven Sweater knit in Black Isle Yarns Shetland 4ply/Sport (photos by Clare Shaw)

3rd January 202029th December 2023 Julie

My talented friend Emily Williams has worked her magic again, this time with my Bluefaced Leicester 4ply (one of my small batch yarns spun by The Border Mill). As Emily says:

‘Fyrish’s rippling waves of colour flow as far as you let them. This unusual narrow shawl (or is it a wide scarf?) tucks neatly under your coat, but can be puffed up to make a beautiful statement just at the neck. Or you could knit a longer version for a dramatic wrap. This distinctive openwork ripple stitch makes the most of Black Isle Yarns’ deep hues and soft handle. And if you find those strong gaps and scalloped lines suggest gothic arches… well, you should come visit Fyrish some time.’

Fyrish itself, and the inspiration for the shawl, is a hill just to the north of the Black Isle. The monument on top of Cnoc Fyrish was built in 1792 as a means of providing work during the Highland Clearances. The local laird, Sir Hector Munro, organised the construction of the monument as a means of providing work – reportedly rolling stones back down the hill to extend the length of time it took to build.

The Fyrish Shawl is my current favourite to wear – in BFL 4ply it is wonderfully soft and has a slight squish and drape. The shawl is very economical, using just one full 100g skein plus two 25g mini skeins. I have been thoroughly enjoying dyeing sets for the shawl. BFL is a small batch yarn so may not always be in stock but Fyrish will work well in BFL Suri too and I will try to keep mini skein sets in the shop as much as possible.

Black Isle Yarns

Tag: naturally dyed

Inshriach Hat

Balvattan Mittens

Feshie Shawl

Pityoulish Vest

Rothiemurchus Cowl

Sisymbrium Sweater in Killen Sock

Sian Sweater in Shetland DK

Asahi Shawl in Auchen Sport

Wilkhaven Sweater in Shetland 4ply/Sport

Fyrish Shawl

Sign up for our newsletter